It is so typically Hong Kong. Co-worker Charles went to a swish new HK eatery last night. Stunning views, fantastic fit-out, no expense spared. Literally millions of dollars would have gone into making the place look great. Consultants would have been consulted. Designers would have designed. PR flaks would be flakking.

But why do such places then insist on hiring waiters who have clearly never waited a table in their life? Who do not know a bordeaux from a beaujolais? A confit from a corn fritter? Paying peanuts gets you monkeys. A restaurant's location matters, but only after you take care of the basics. You need good food and wine, sure. But service often matters as much or more. A meal of cr@ppy food can usually be redeemed by good service, while a meal of 3 star Michelin standard can be brought underdone by bad service. Defining good service is impossible because it is so subjective but there are basics that need to be covered.

Spend a little less on the light fittings and a little more on the staff. That's Simon World's Restaurant Advice™ for today.